Adam Melton

• Kobalt 1/4″ Universal joint socket driver – $5.97
• Kobalt 1/4″ 11mm socket (You can substitute this for any old 1/4″ socket that you have) – $2.47
• 6″ Roller Frame Whizz – $1.97
• Fender washers 1/4″ x 1-1/4″ pack – $6.58
• Stl Flathead 1/4″ x 3″ machined screws 2 pack – $.98
• Aluminum Flat 1/8″ x 3/4″ x 3″ – $4.38
• J-B Kwik epoxy – $4.98

Total: $27.33 if you purchase everything. Most people will have at least one of these lying around

I also purchased some 1/4″ x 1/2″ screws but ended up not using them.

First Step. Cut the shaft on the paint roller. This is what the universal joint will attach to and be the handle for our Steadicam. I chose to cut it fairly short but you may choose any length you wish.

Next step. Mix up some J-B Kwik and use it to attach the universal joint to the handle and also one of the 3″ screws inside of the 11mm socket. You might need to shave/sand the edge of the screw head to get it to fit. If you have an extra 1/4″ nut then you can have it inside of the socket to add additional strength and straightness to the screw. The handle will clip into the socket and the camera will also screw onto this same screw from the top.

I used my hands and curved the aluminum stock into this shape. Insert the socket/screw through the hole in the top and tighten a nut down onto it. Drill a hole on the bottom and use the second 3″ screw to attach several of the washers. This will act as a counter weight for your camera and keep the whole system level and upright.

After playing around with bending the metal and different holes/number of washers I found this configuration to be the best for my handheld camera. I cut the rest of the aluminum off  with a hacksaw. I still drilled multiple holes so that I may adjust the balance of the whole configuration later. Also you can see that you do not have to remove the nut in order to add/remove washers on the fly. Between the holes/washers and being able to bend the aluminum, this system is extremely adjustable.

Cut the screw sticking out of the socket. Remember that you can always cut off more later so don’t chop off to much to begin with. Also if you thread a nut past where you cut, when you make your cut and unscrew the nut then all of the threads will be realigned.

Here is a closeup of the universal joint, socket, and cut screw. I chose to put two nuts on top so that I can orient my camera and tighten the nut from below to hold it in that position. For a cheap  DIY 25 dollar steadicam I am extremely impressed with the results. I will try to record some comparison footage for you to be able to compare the differences.

My Girlfriend (Jessica) was over at my 2nd floor apartment due to the bad weather that day. We both had received multiple text messages and calls about the bad weather headed our way. However, looking outside we were not alarmed. We saw overcast skies with semi-dark clouds. Comparing the lack of wind/hail/and rain to April 15th, when a tornado passed just south of Tuscaloosa, reassured us that it was not going to be bad. As the afternoon progressed we could tell that things were getting slightly worse. I pulled up a live stream of the weather online and watched the weather man (James Spann) diligently laying out the paths of other severe storm fronts and tornadoes occurring throughout the state of Alabama and surrounding. As Jessica pointed out on April 15th that you can always tell the severity of the weather by the status of James Spann’s jacket. On is good, Off is bad. Today it was off from the get go.

We watch a tornado drop out of the clouds from the skycam in downtown Tuscaloosa. I walk outside and try to look in that direction but my door is on the opposite side of the building. We watch the feed of the tornado as it begins tearing through Tuscaloosa.  At one point the tower camera feed is lost and just minutes later we lose power. All of my networking equipment is on a battery backup so I whip out my netbook and attempt to pull up James again. This whole time Jessica has been outside on the porch looking around and watching the clouds. I give up with my netbook due to the cable internet being down before it gets to my apartment so I turn on my weather radio and start throwing some things in a pack. Almost immediately Jessica spots several people leaving their house and heading for their crawlspace door. She asks them if the tornado is headed for us and looking up at here one yells out ” It is right behind you!”.

Here is a Google Street View of the apartment before the tornado. My apartment was the top right unit and the house is seen here with the entrance to the crawlspace on the side facing my apartment. The tornado came from behind my apartment building and passed directly over my end unit and the house we were under before continuing out the right side of this picture

I finished throwing things in my pack and we ran down the stairs and across the parking lot. At this point it was not even raining and hardly windy. We dove into the dugout crawlspace across the parking lot from my second floor apartment but not before I turned around and looked up the swirling mass approaching us.  Crawling through a small 2′x3′ door I am pleasantly surprised with a couple of steps leading into a slightly dugout crawlspace and not a real ‘get on your hands and knees” type. Glancing around I see that there is a cinder block extending from ground level up to the bottom of the floor joist and a cinder block pillar in the middle. I unconsciously determined that we should all get down and against the right hand wall not realizing at the time why I felt inclined to move there. I later realized that by stopping to look at the tornado and analyzing the building construction of the house I subconsciously determined that 1) We should not be standing up but instead get down 2) The counter-clockwise spin of the tornado meant that the right hand wall was the safest. These two facts made a very big impact when looking at the post tornado pictures.

With our backs against the wall there was little that we could do but ride it out. At some point I decided to pull out my phone and start video taping (see below).  A building roar, ears popping and darkness. I didn’t close my eyes until I saw the pillar in front of me start to fall and shoot up into the air with the house attached to it. As the house  above us blew away we had nothing between us and the raging tornado. However, that quickly changed as two vehicles were thrown in on top of us. We were sitting right under where the Jeep Cherokee is now. The triangle void it created as it slid over the wall and landed at our feet was just large enough for Jessica and I. The rear axle struck my head on its descent to the ground. I opened my eyes a the impact but had to close them due to the sandblasting effect we were receiving. It was over in seconds.

Here is a picture taken hours after the tornado passed and taken from the roof of my FJ Cruiser.

The triangle created around us. We were sitting directly under the jeep with our backs against the wall and knees against our chest. Note the bricks and debris peppering our hideout.

View from inside the pit. That is the back of my FJ Cruiser.

My FJ after being pushed back ~50ft and pelted with debris.

The FJ was parked in the spaces in front of it. I am standing in what used to be my apartment to take this picture. Recognize the Stereo Cooler?

A view from my apartment looking across the pit we were in at the remains of a power sub station.

Over the next few hours both Jessica and I assisted in pulling people out from my apartment complex and giving them aid. Thankfully all were alive. We then had to walk several miles to the interstate to meet my parents for a ride home and a hot shower.

———————————–Update July 2011———————————–

Here are three more pictures courtesy of Jessica Colburn.

My apartment. Corner apartment on the second floor. Well at least it used to be. I am really glad we decided not to stay in there. Taken on the day.

If we had stayed in my apartment then we may have opted to get in the shower-tub. I’m glad we didn’t…

It is amazing how fast you get dirty and how dirty you get. We were sandblasted literally. This is me standing in the back of my FJ Cruiser a few hours after the tornado passed.

Here is a short compilation of my footage and some pictures.

My interview with Piers Morgan on CNN.

Mr. President giving a speech in front of the remains of my apartment.

Jeff’s short clip of us getting down to the trapped couple.

Jeff helping me to carry the girl to safety.

In this interview Mr. President is standing between my apartment and my FJ Cruiser. The house we were under used to be right behind where the FJ is now.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-13244407

Another interview that includes my girlfriend Jessica Colburn next to my apartment.

http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/video/alabama-deadliest-tornado-outbreak-depression-violent-storms-sweep-through-south-us-13497636

Have you ever heard  of or thought of the fact that there is a 0 dimension? Like before first, second, third.. dimension? I don’t think I had until now honestly, or at least I never really thought about it. Here, I’ll try to describe the scene. Lying in bed, can’t sleep. Mind racing. So I’m thinking about space and time and dimensions… I don’t know why. And the topic of people going out into space and going so fast that they actually slow down time. But unless my understanding is wrong, it’s all just a bad definition. Time is defined with light and how far it travels at a certain speed, that leaves time as the solution. If you go close to the speed of light, it obviously can not travel as far in the same amount of time which some think that you just changed the rate  of time. I am definitely going to have to reword that one… later. So anyway back on track. Dimensions.

Why do people always give bad examples with dimensions. Maybe we have a hard time understanding them because we keep coming up with bad examples. For instance, 2d. You always hear paper or pictures. Why not monitors?  or even projectors for an easier thought. There is no real depth, you can’t run your finger over it and feel the buttons, but there is still an illusion of depth. Just another mechanism of our brains trying to deal with our limited world. But then I thought, no because there is still depth, even if just at the individual photon level, which I guess would not actually be on the board but on the antennae your eye, tricking your brain yet again. Oh but wait, why not just in our heads. There is no depth, but there’s no real width or height either. So that would be 0d wouldn’t it? (please correct me if I am wrong or voice your opinions) Zero Dimension. But if they exist on that plane then there is no distance, which by some peoples definitions can only mean no time. So really our 3d bodies are just holding our 0d brains back in that example, or maybe they are allowing it to only move forward which enables our thinking processes. Who knows.  ADD moment, Visualizing 2d creatures, you usually hear about flatland and of them trying to explain 3d to each other.  Well why don’t they just point up and down? oh, right, how do you point up when there is no up. Ok so they are infinitely short, but then they might as well be infinitely tall. Because if each partical were infinite in the Z axis, it wouldn’t matter if it were tall or short. Which makes me wonder if that rule works anywhere else with infinite. Let’s see, where could we apply it. Numbers, Ok so negative and positive infinity, well really it is not the numbers that are infinite, just the block as a whole so yes, they are the same. But what is that block called? I’ll have to google it later. Space, it is believed to be infinite right? Metaphorically speaking that would make us the numbers or digits in the block as a whole, which when migrated to space would be distance. So our size or measurements would be the digits to the infinity, we are just somewhere above or below zero. So wait, that would be distance, in a direction. Dimensions, the 3 that we live in. We are back to infinitely small or large. So what is the block here?  If we are the digits then I guess “Space” would be the block. So yes, it is not just infinitely large but also infinitely small. But only because we are on the third dimension.

I felt like starting a new paragraph to split it this up. Back to the first dimension (that being the Zero Dimension) Great, now I have to point out the fact that we don’t live on the third dimension, we live on the 4th dimension. 0123 with 3 being the 4th digit. Time has to exist on the first dimension but if only on that plane then does it matter? There is no physical movement, not that you would be anything that would move anyway. But tied to another dimension would add this giant feature that all 0d creatures would otherwise know nothing about. Are there more features with each dimension?  I suppose movement would come with things in 1dimension. Thinking back to space, how can we tie this back. Space is both infinitely large and small, but isn’t it expanding?

Just had a thought, Wouldn’t the beginning of the 3rd dimension be the first time that things would be allowed to move in 3 directions? Yes, and the same would be true for every other dimensions. So if time is tied to dimensions 1 and above, then the beginning of “Time”  would also be the beginning of dimension 1. I wonder if the other dimensions above it happened simultaneously and I guess it really doesn’t matter worrying about dimension 0 since time didn’t exist with it anyway. Neat. So lets dumb this down so that I can understand it and humanize it which will probably make it horribly wrong. Dimension 0, then 1 which things could move laterally(for ease of visualization) yet they would be infinitely small/large, 2 would be the same as 1 except that things can now move laterally and longitudinally. Ah, but when jumping from one dimension to the next you really do have to convert it somehow, it can’t be infinitely small and large at the same time. I guess when dealing with dimensions it makes no difference unless you are looking from 1 dimension above. In which case it would make more sense to say infinitely small. Well if everything that exists existed infinitely small in all directions, then was allowed to move one way, would it not explode that way with tremendous force? and then in the next dimension it would explode that new direction with half as much force as before? That kind of fits the model of the big bang theory, no? We were infinitely small then suddenly allowed to expand 3 different ways, infinitely. So yes it is still infinite. I don’t even know where to begin visualizing that on dimension 4. I’ll save it for tomorrow.

Well what does all of this have in common, time and dimension 0 or the first dimension. Did adding dimensions cause time or did time cause more dimensions?

Good question. I think I can finally sleep now. Till next time

P.S. I think that I am going to get in the habbit of ranting here more. I kind of like it. Oh and also, to the 29 people that have left comments since I last moderated them, Sorry. I will wait until I can really respond to each of you and I am making time for that tomorrow. Thanks again for the kind words and great comments.

Sorry, life happens. We get distracted, short on money and busy with getting through today.

Thanks :)

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It is perfect for car camping trips, tailgating,  the beach, and basically anything not near a power source (including if the power goes out).  I got an 88L igloo cooler for mine but any will do.

I chose to purchase most of my components online, starting with some 5.25 Boss marine speakers.  I thought that mounting to the cooler was going to be difficult but after bending the supplied clips and inserting them behind the first layer of plastic it turned out extremely solid and easy.

The clip acts as a nut and washer behind the plastic.

Then I was able to mount the head unit and battery. I also threw in a 400w power inverter (far right) for small jobs and I’ll probably add a larger one later for larger tv’s etc. Above the inverter is a small battery charger and maintainer to keep the 115AH deep cycle marine battery topped off when at home.  A simple switch panel at the bottom controls the charger, stereo and other components to the system.

Still to come is the marine subwoofer and amp, some 12v cigarette sockets and a solution to control the stereo via remote when the lid is closed. Just in case you were wondering why not mount the head unit through the cooler, I will be mainly using this car camping and It needs to be able to survive a heavy rain with no problems.

———————————–Update March 2010———————————–

This is the setup that I used for ~8 months. I have yet to find a good price on a 200-400 watt amplifier so I just wired the subwoofer as a rear speaker for now.

From West Marine I purchased a waterproof splash cover for the head unit. That allowed me to mount the stereo on the back side of the cooler for easy access. I lengthened the wires so that I can keep the sensor in the front.

The view from the front did not change. There is enough room on the front to move the current speakers to the sides and replace them with larger ones.

The cover is translucent and allows you to view the display easily while keeping any sand/moisture/water off.

Cover up.

The disconnect for the IR sensor that I moved to the front. This way the faceplate can be removed if needed without cutting any wires.

Here is the old “caddy” I used to help me cart the cooler around. It was made out of junk parts and was meant to be temporary but ended up being used more than I liked. It slid off and was ugly plus it was unstable.

So, I took the wheels off and made a K.I.S.S. solution. It only required ~$5 in bolts and brackets from the local hardware store. I reused the wheels.

Each wheel has its own bearing and is just bolted directly to the 2×4 with a washer to add spacing. The main bolt goes in through the drain plug and holds the 2×4 up to the cooler while the brackets take most of the weight. This ended up working even better than I had thought.

On the inside is a nut JB Welded to a washer which is glued to the cooler.  When the wheels are removed you can put the cap back on the drain and no one would be the wiser.

First trial run. Very strong, doesn’t wobble or feel loose in any way. I can even stand on this end of the cooler (which also has the ~45lb battery) and it feels very sturdy. A nice handle on the end of the nut will have to be added in the future for ease of use. And perhaps a coat or two of paint.

View from the front. The wheels will probably stay on when no one will be sitting on it and on the beach, but can easily be removed just by unscrewing the one bolt going through the drain plug.

And from the back. Also the placement of the wheels give me more clearance when I pick up the handle to tote it along. That should be nice in the sand our outdoors in high grass/dirt.

At the beach, even in very strong winds it can be heard and sounds great (with appropriate volume levels considering any neighbors). Ipod on top plugged into stereo’s aux in.

———————————–Update May 2011———————————–

As some of you may already know, I was hit by the April 27th tornado that passed through Tuscaloosa and The University of Alabama. The full Story, Video, Pictures and Interviews can be found here.  Here is a picture of the stereo cooler in action. I turned it around on what was left of the floor of my 2nd floor apartment and blasted radio tunes and tornado information out into the residents returning to see what they can find. This picture was taken the day after the tornado struck but I ran the stereo cooler every day that week.

There was some damage done to the cooler housing but nothing that kept it from being operational. I removed all of the electronics and relocated them into a blue cube cooler with wheels.

———————————–Update October 2011———————————–

I migrated all of the electronics from the previous cooler into the new  blue one excluding the battery and inverter. I am using 2 7ah sealed lead acid batteries (temporarily) in the cooler. I moved the deep cycle battery into its own enclosure with the inverter mounted on top.

With these two batteries the stereo lasts ~6 hours at a loud volume .  The 2 farad capacitor helps tremendously with the sealed lead acids in providing the needed current for the amplifier. Only one 7ah battery is required for full use, I simply added the other in parallel for added run time.

Here you can see the subwoofer on front with the stereo head unit above it. On the either side are the 3-way marine speakers. This side also has a 12v accessory outlet.

Everything is fused and all wires are “rattle proof” except for the temporary battery wires.  The 12v outlet also allows me to charge the unit without opening it, or attaching an additional power supply such as the old 115ah deep cycle.

You can also see the amp for the subwoofer and the 2 farad capacitor. I never took a picture of them in the old stereo cooler setup.

I used a cheap battery enclosure from Academy Sports to house the 115ah deep cycle from the old stereo cooler. On top I mounted a 15A 12v outlet, master switch with removable key, and 400watt inverter all of which are from the old cooler. They are fused inside the housing. I would like to add an Anderson power pole plug/connector for HAM radio and other accessory usage. I do not currently have my amateur radio license but do plan on getting it.

I added some reflective areas to the front and back of the case so that it will be easier to spot and less likely for someone to trip on it. Also I made an adapter cable that connects the banana plugs on the back of the inverter to the 12v outlet on the stereo cooler. The same cable is used to charge both units and allows the “power box” to be plugged into a vehicle.  It is fused at 7.5amps so there is little risk of any issues involved in these uses.

The original stereo cooler served many functions. Now that I have split it up into two units, I have found that it is more functional this way. The stereo is MUCH easier to carry/transport and the power unit can be used when the stereo is not needed. The new setup is much more compact and easier to use.

Feel free to leave any questions in the comments or just Contact Me.

The barrel is actually rifled just like you would see inside a rifle. It was purchased several years ago by me from www.SpudTech.com which has some great products. The chamber size was calculated around the size of the barrel since I already owned it.  Using various online calculators I determined the needed size of the chamber and metering tube for the propane.

A regular pc fan is used inside the chamber to vent out the burnt air after each shot and to circulate the propane to evenly mix it. I did not have this setup the first day I used it, so comparing with and without, I would highly recommend a fan inside. Also you can see the pcb board that creates 8 spark gaps for  the stun gun. On the right side is a 3″ piece of pvc pipe which holds the propane tank and a project box from radioshack.  On top is the metering tube for the propane injection. This propane injected stun gun / taser fired potato cannon is quite efficient.  3 bags of potatoes and 0 misfires.

Here is a side shot of the chamber with the barrel removed. To fire the gun you attach the barrel (screw it on) insert potato in the end of the barrel and pack it down to the bottom of the barrel where it meets the chamber. Next you turn on the fan to vent the chamber and put the cap on the end of the chamber to seal it off. Turn the valve on the propane tank on and watch the pressure gauge as it pressurizes the hose. After turning the first valve to fill the metering tube wait for the pressure gauge to climb back up to about 75-80 psi (propane tank supplies 90psi) then turn off the valve. Now turn the chamber fan back on and release the propane into the chamber using the valve on the other end of the metering tube. Arm the ignition by turning on the switch on the far left and you are ready to fire.

I am in the process of making a chronograph to measure the muzzle velocity of the potato cannon. This prototype failed to work at the speeds the potato(s) was going.

Basically it consists of two photo resistors one foot apart. As the potato passes by it blocks light and that reading is calculated by an arduino microcontroller and fed back to my laptop.

A simple chair with some plywood served as the base for the chronograph with another piece of plywood to keep direct sun off of the device.

After three shots the chronograph never got a reading so shooting the plywood let out some frustration :) . Before first shot.

After the first shot. The rifling causes the potato to come out a little up and left. However, it stays very very straight after that due to the spinning caused by the rifling.

Second shot knocked everything down and went right through the 1/4″ plywood at a distance of ~20ft.

Back side of second shot and front side of third shot.

After only a handful of shots the plywood is decimated.

Sample video showing plywood destruction and brief operation description.

]]> http://www.addictronics.com/miscellaneous/portable-potato-cannon/feed 1 http://www.addictronics.com/electronics/microcontroller-launcher http://www.addictronics.com/electronics/microcontroller-launcher#comments Thu, 13 Nov 2008 05:57:54 +0000 Adam http://www.Addictronics.com/?p=579 EDIT: Made it to the front page of HAD http://hackaday.com/2008/11/15/microcontroller-fireworks-launcher/

So on a slight upgrade from my last launcher I made a new model rocket/Fireworks launcher using an Arduino microcontroller . This project was inspired by this wireless fireworks controller and this microcontroller rocket launcher . I really did not want to dedicate my launch device to any one specific role since celebrations are far apart and model rockets are somewhere near the middle of my list of hobbies.  By combining the two different devices together I was able to achieve what I wanted.  Most of my original drawings are found here…

I was going to use the ATmega32 microcontroller because of its quantity of digital I/O lines but settled on using an Arduino Diecimila for prototyping and RBBB for implementation. Keeping things simplistic but still allowing a workable user interface I decided on only using 4 buttons and 2 switches.

• Power Switch:
• Turning the device on and off.
• Key Switch: Activating the launch screen and final authentication method before launch.
• Left/Right Launch Buttons: Menu Navigation, login acceptance and launch.
• Up/Down buttons: More menu navigation.

The ATmega168 only has 14 digital I/O lines and I will be requiring at least 1 for each switch and launch terminal.  Two 8-bit shift registers give me 16 terminals and are super nice because in order to operate both you only have to sacrifice Three pins. Here are some things I wanted to include

• Startup melody
• Password authentication
• Key Switch
• Ability to change launch configuration such as delay and patterns.
• Screen for pattern selection and other settings.

Here is the finished prototype. Basically this is just a proof of concept and also it allowed me to finish the software prior to installation. You can see the black 16pin shift registers each broken out to LED segments. The yellow chips are 330 ohm resistors.

I finished the transistor board after lots of soldering. Each output from the shift registers are connected to the Base of the Transistor through a 1k resistor and each pin has a pull-down resistor as well. Instead of using one power source, the terminals will be broken up into four power sources. Two 9 volt batteries in series will feed each section of 4 terminals. Eight batteries for the launch system and two more for powering the microcontroller, LCD screen, LED’s and etc. To help take the initial shock current off of the 9v batteries each of the four sections has a 4700uf cap. The smaller cap is part of the 5v regulator system for all the controls.

Using an old floppy cable I connected the transistor board to the Arduino RBBB. And then some more for connecting up the switches, buzzer, led’s and LCD screen. All that is next is to wire up the terminals to the transistor board and then mount it all in its case.

Well wire that up and get some more batteries :)

After acquiring the batteries and finishing up the wiring I started looking for a case. I knew that I wanted something pelican-esk. I found this Plano waterproof case at Academy Sports an everything fits inside perfectly. The next problem was what to use for the lid to mount the switches to. Three walks around my house landed me with some plywood, Plexiglas and a clipboard. The clipboard almost fit to begin with so I chose to use it. After some hot glue here is the result.

I had to recess the top piece down some for the red arming switch to clear the case lid. I really like the looks of how this turned out.

The launcher booted up and armed, ready for launch. I should probably mention the two momentary push button switches to the right of the LCD screen. I used some felt with sticky on the back to cover them up and still show their location. I would probably use larger push buttons that were mountable if I had to do this over again.  Also each launch button  (bottom left and right) have built in blue LED’s which didn’t show up in this picture.

Steps to get to the launch screen include:

• Turning the power on
• Entering in launch code.
  • Press and holding both launch buttons to verify code
  • If code is wrong it notifies the user and reboots
• Selecting the launch array which include
  • Every terminal
  • Every odd terminal
  • Every even terminal
  • Terminal #1 only
  • Every terminal with a 1sec delay between
• Then inserting the key and turning it to the on position.
  • This arms the system and turns on a relay which connects the battery packs to the transistor board.
  • Also when armed the launch buttons light up bright blue.
• Pressing both launch buttons simultaneously.

Inside the case the first thing to notice is the battery array. Two for each terminal and two for the launch system. Hot glue was mainly used to hold things together but some other reinforcement will be added before this sees field use.  A short test of each terminal and all buttons and this is ready to see its first rocket or firework.

Coming this New Years will be another video of it in action but here is a short demonstration video.

Microcontroller Rocket/Firework Launcher from Adam on Vimeo.

Things to Consider
If I were going to do this again I would probably try to use a different power source. I think a rechargeable alarm battery would be easy to integrate and also would allow recharging. As I said before I would also use different up down buttons next to the lcd and try to trim the edges of the lcd with something more professional looking.

I have some Ideas of things I will add or change such as more launch arrays and a login password that is changeable via the device and not software set. Adding a security measure of having to press the launch buttons within a certain amount of each other would be doable and make accidental launch less likely.

One thing that I am planning on adding for sure is some type of remote, probably wired, to set off the rocket or fireworks from an even further distance. I’m thinking of using a project box and telephone cord for this but if you can think of something better let me know!

Click below for the code/data files. It is a compressed zip package.

MicroControllerLauncher_Code-Data