It is perfect for car camping trips, tailgating,  the beach, and basically anything not near a power source (including if the power goes out).  I got an 88L igloo cooler for mine but any will do.

I chose to purchase most of my components online, starting with some 5.25 Boss marine speakers.  I thought that mounting to the cooler was going to be difficult but after bending the supplied clips and inserting them behind the first layer of plastic it turned out extremely solid and easy.

The clip acts as a nut and washer behind the plastic.

Then I was able to mount the head unit and battery. I also threw in a 400w power inverter (far right) for small jobs and I’ll probably add a larger one later for larger tv’s etc. Above the inverter is a small battery charger and maintainer to keep the 115AH deep cycle marine battery topped off when at home.  A simple switch panel at the bottom controls the charger, stereo and other components to the system.

Still to come is the marine subwoofer and amp, some 12v cigarette sockets and a solution to control the stereo via remote when the lid is closed. Just in case you were wondering why not mount the head unit through the cooler, I will be mainly using this car camping and It needs to be able to survive a heavy rain with no problems.

———————————–Update March 2010———————————–

This is the setup that I used for ~8 months. I have yet to find a good price on a 200-400 watt amplifier so I just wired the subwoofer as a rear speaker for now.

From West Marine I purchased a waterproof splash cover for the head unit. That allowed me to mount the stereo on the back side of the cooler for easy access. I lengthened the wires so that I can keep the sensor in the front.

The view from the front did not change. There is enough room on the front to move the current speakers to the sides and replace them with larger ones.

The cover is translucent and allows you to view the display easily while keeping any sand/moisture/water off.

Cover up.

The disconnect for the IR sensor that I moved to the front. This way the faceplate can be removed if needed without cutting any wires.

Here is the old “caddy” I used to help me cart the cooler around. It was made out of junk parts and was meant to be temporary but ended up being used more than I liked. It slid off and was ugly plus it was unstable.

So, I took the wheels off and made a K.I.S.S. solution. It only required ~$5 in bolts and brackets from the local hardware store. I reused the wheels.

Each wheel has its own bearing and is just bolted directly to the 2×4 with a washer to add spacing. The main bolt goes in through the drain plug and holds the 2×4 up to the cooler while the brackets take most of the weight. This ended up working even better than I had thought.

On the inside is a nut JB Welded to a washer which is glued to the cooler.  When the wheels are removed you can put the cap back on the drain and no one would be the wiser.

First trial run. Very strong, doesn’t wobble or feel loose in any way. I can even stand on this end of the cooler (which also has the ~45lb battery) and it feels very sturdy. A nice handle on the end of the nut will have to be added in the future for ease of use. And perhaps a coat or two of paint.

View from the front. The wheels will probably stay on when no one will be sitting on it and on the beach, but can easily be removed just by unscrewing the one bolt going through the drain plug.

And from the back. Also the placement of the wheels give me more clearance when I pick up the handle to tote it along. That should be nice in the sand our outdoors in high grass/dirt.

At the beach, even in very strong winds it can be heard and sounds great (with appropriate volume levels considering any neighbors). Ipod on top plugged into stereo’s aux in.

Whats next?
- Tidy up the wiring and mount everything securely
- Fuse block and kill switch
- Switches, volt meter, 12v cigarette plugs, amplifier
- Cover for inside with mounted switches and volt meter
- Storage for cables
-Padded cushion top
- Cooling for stereo and the future amp
- Wheel(s) for transportation

Feel free to leave any questions in the comments or just Contact Me.

• Min-ITX Motherboard 1.8ghz
• Mini power supply 12v input
• 1gb ram
• 40gb laptop hard drive
• hard drive adapter
• Wireless card

My first mission was to find something to house all of this in and here is what I found.

So I went out and bought it.

It is a 2 pistol gun case from Academy Sports. The mini-itx fits in the bottom perfectly, and there is room to plug in usb devices/ monitor cable/ audio cables without cutting any holes. Also the lid is about an inch thick with the foam. The first thing that I did was to cut a hole in it for the touchscreen monitor and it looks great!

And here it is with the motherboard sitting in its place.

Since the mouse is integrated with the monitor all I lack is a keyboard to get this project rolling. A quick search revealed this, A mini usb keyboard that is only 11.7 inches wide and 6 inches deep. Its perfect!

I actually ended up rotating the motherboard because it fits better this way and the ventilation will be better as well. You can see what I had to do with all of the slack from all of the cables. Everything is mounted with super sticky Velcro and lots of it.

Once the first layer of foam is removed from the lid you can see the relocated speaker and the mounted gps unit. I found some cable organizers that have very sticky pads on them and work great I just need more of them.. The Velcro works extremely well for mounting everything. It lets everything move a little and dampens vibrations also it allows everything to be removed if need be.

Okay, I got the keyboard in and it is almost insane how well it fits. If the keyboard was 1/8th of an inch wider or more narrow, it wouldn’t fit. I had to take the bottom off of they keyboard so that it would lay down flat and not hit the screen when the lid is closed. Next I added two supports to hold up the keyboard and help strengthen the case. I used the existing screws and holes for the handle to mount it on the front side and some Velcro to mount the backside of the supports. The Velcro allows the supports to move and give which is perfect since the case isn’t super rigid. Also the Velcro eliminates the need to add more holes into the case. Now I just need to fill the holes on the top and bottom of the keyboard.

I used some more of the foam that came with the case to fill the gaps on the top and bottom of the keyboard, To keep the foam from being pushed down to far i added strips of aluminum with sticky foam tape behind it to hold up the foam inserts. Also I added two usb ports and the power plug above the keyboard. The wire you see holding up the lid is temporary, I still haven’t found a way to keep the lid from opening to far without adding any holes to the case.

I left a hole on the bottom left hand side of the keyboard and the top left side of the keyboard for airflow. There is a fan you can see in one of the previous pictures that blows air out above the left hand side of the keyboard. This allows air to circulate through the cpu, ram and other heatsinks before leaving the case. In this picture I am running a Folding at Home (F@H) test to check the stability of this system. If it doesn’t overheat after a day of running this then it is stable enough for me. The white wire is an Ethernet wire since i haven’t bought a usb wifi card for it yet. I already have the bluetooth dongle installed and that allows me to use a bluetooth keyboard or mouse instead of the built in ones, also I can access the internet through my cellphone via bluetooth. The usb GPS module is removed because I do not know if it will get enough signal from its position inside the lid. I will update that as soon as I am able to test it more.

 Next Steps: Figure out GPS situation, Install usb wifi adapter, Find something to cover the foam with to keep dirt out, Make cigarette adapter for in-car use.